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Ary's Warung
Ary's gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have fans from around the world. Stop in at least for one of their honey-ginger-lime drinks (with or without the booze) and kick back in a couch at street side for a bit of people-watching. The metallic, angular construction of this two-floor, open-air bistro would look great in a big city gallery district, but is a bit at odds with ancient Hindu temples and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see and be seen, however, and Ary's is quite pleasant at night when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at dusk. The food is good; overpriced, but good. Try the gazpacho, a generous bowl full of icy fresh flavor -- perfect for a hot day -- or the grilled goat cheese salad. The grilled tuna and lamb cutlets are done to perfection, and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. They offer a tasting menu for Rp220,000 ($24) which includes two glasses of house wine. Ary's also makes for a good meeting place, or for reconnoitering when the kids are trekking and mom is off shopping.
 
Batan's Waru
Tucked away on a pleasant side street, Batan's Waru is particularly atmospheric at night, when the street entrance is lit with candles. The very ambitious menu has traditional dishes beyond the usual suspects and plenty of vegetarian options. For an appetizer, try urap pakis, wild fern tips with roasted coconut and spices; or the lemper ayam, chicken dumplings simmered in a banana leaf. Uncle Karaman's Humus is spicy and comes with grilled-pepper flat bread and tomato-mint relish. Everything is served with a dish of spicy hot condiments. Finish off with a perfect cup of decaf Illy-brand espresso. The restaurant also does smoked duck and a babi guleng feast, with a day's advance order, and there is a full menu of pasta, sandwiches, and light fare.
 
Bebek Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner)
The Dirty Duck is the best place to try Ubud's famous dish. First stewed in local spices, then deep fried, the duck here is finger-lickin' good, but not quite as oily as in other restaurants. Another good choice is the stuffed chicken with shiitake, sprouts, and spinach. The menu also features salads, overstuffed crunchy sandwiches, and good veggie options. There are two locations, on either end of town.
 
Cafe Lotus
The food here isn't half bad, but the real reason to come to Cafe Lotus is for the chance to dine in the shadow of the Pura Saraswati temple. It's cozy in the shaded dining area or on bamboo platforms overlooking the temple. The menu features some good Western dishes, pastas and such, some modified into fiery dishes with hot chiles, black olives, and hearts of palm. Try the Balinese Satay Lilit, a mixed fish kabob with a hint of coconut, served on skewers and presented on a plate the size of a boat. Their fresh health drinks are a delight, and it's a good place to just kick back when touring the town. No beef is served due to the restaurant's proximity to the temple.
 
Indus
Indus provides two floors of open-air dining overlooking the stunning Tjampuhan Ridge. It's a bit like a mafia don's house, with marble tile and columns. The entrance is a small gallery and the dining area is under a high thatch roof with cozy, low-slung couches and chairs to one side. This is a great spot for coffee and escape from the heat, or for a long, languid lunch. The setting alone makes it worth the trip, and the food is tops. Sample the likes of beetroot and feta empanadas, grilled calamari tostada, or fine wraps and sandwiches. Be sure to try the Balinese tenggiri curry, a Spanish whitefish done in ginger and coconut (or, for a lighter choice, try the tenggiri salad). Indus has an extensive tapas menu and good fruit smoothies. Save room for the homemade ginger ice cream or coconut crème caramel.
 
Mozaic
The word is out and hip Mozaic is the only place in town where you really need a reservation; make one. Chris Salons, the French-trained American chef and owner, brings his own distinctive French-American cooking techniques and presentation. He uses fresh local ingredients, all rich and delicious but healthy, with unique local dairy substitutes. The restaurant was just listed in Le Grande Tables du Monde, a prestigious French culinary fraternity. The level of innovation and service is unrivaled. A meal at Mozaic is a languid affair, best enjoyed in multiple courses, sopped up with good bread, chased with fine wine, and shared with friends. Give yourself at least 2 hours to really enjoy it. Daytime dining features good French light fare served in a quiet patio area. The evening meal is an extravaganza of French and continental specialties done with local flair and served in a lush garden dining area. Try the king prawns in chilled gazpacho, followed by a pan-seared Long-Nose Emperor filet done in a Laksa Indonesian yellow emulsion with rice noodles and baby turnips. Other specials include roasted lamb with toasted almond and bean fricassee, Australian beef tenderloin, and local favorites like babi guling and Ubud crispy duck. Finish with a fine sorbet combining melon, cherry, and pomello. The chocolate tart soufflé is sinfully rich. Service is ultraprofessional, attentive without being fawning or intimidating, and the atmosphere is the right mix of elegant and casual -- the perfect romantic evening.
 
Naughty Nuri's Warung and Grill
This old expat hangout has the best barbecue in town, with ribs so tender the meat falls right off the bone. On Thursday a regular shipment of fresh tuna arrives and the place fills right up. The burgers, dogs, and local curries and satay are also good. Free-flowing drink (try their honkin' martinis) add to the laid-back atmosphere at street side. Bring your appetite, a high booze tolerance, and a good sense of humor.
 
Satri's Warung
The house specialty of this funky, hidden courtyard is worth the hunt (and the wait). You need to order a day in advance for a feast of a whole chicken or duck marinated and glazed in a succulent sauce. The meat just falls off the bone, and the shared dish is artfully arranged and served with heaping plates of salad, cooked vegetables, and a large bowl of rice. Top it off with fresh-squeezed lemonade. Don't miss this restaurant, even if you don't have time for the chicken or duck; it's one of the finest warungs in all of Bali. The very friendly Mrs. Satri serves her exceptional Indonesian food in generous portions, and she also holds cooking classes by appointment. The restaurant is at the end of a dim little alley off of Monkey Forest Road. On approach, it looks a bit shady, but soldier on, have a seat, say hello, and ask for a recommendation. A good evening is guaranteed.
 
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PUTRI AYU COTTAGES
Bisma Street, Ubud, Gianyar 80571
Bali - Indonesia
Tel : (62-361) 972590
Fax : (62-361) 972591
Email : putriayu@indosat.net.id