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Ary's
Warung
Ary's gourmet European and Indonesian specialties have
fans from around the world. Stop in at least for one of
their honey-ginger-lime drinks (with or without the booze)
and kick back in a couch at street side for a bit of people-watching.
The metallic, angular construction of this two-floor,
open-air bistro would look great in a big city gallery
district, but is a bit at odds with ancient Hindu temples
and the adjacent Royal Palace. It is the place to see
and be seen, however, and Ary's is quite pleasant at night
when tranquil trance music plays and candles light every
corner. Second-floor dining gives you a good view of the
busy street below or the bats swooping to catch bugs at
dusk. The food is good; overpriced, but good. Try the
gazpacho, a generous bowl full of icy fresh flavor --
perfect for a hot day -- or the grilled goat cheese salad.
The grilled tuna and lamb cutlets are done to perfection,
and the ponzu-grilled snapper is delicious. They offer
a tasting menu for Rp220,000 ($24) which includes two
glasses of house wine. Ary's also makes for a good meeting
place, or for reconnoitering when the kids are trekking
and mom is off shopping. |
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Batan's
Waru
Tucked away on a pleasant side street, Batan's Waru is
particularly atmospheric at night, when the street entrance
is lit with candles. The very ambitious menu has traditional
dishes beyond the usual suspects and plenty of vegetarian
options. For an appetizer, try urap pakis, wild fern tips
with roasted coconut and spices; or the lemper ayam, chicken
dumplings simmered in a banana leaf. Uncle Karaman's Humus
is spicy and comes with grilled-pepper flat bread and
tomato-mint relish. Everything is served with a dish of
spicy hot condiments. Finish off with a perfect cup of
decaf Illy-brand espresso. The restaurant also does smoked
duck and a babi guleng feast, with a day's advance order,
and there is a full menu of pasta, sandwiches, and light
fare. |
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Bebek
Bengil (Dirty Duck Diner)
The Dirty Duck is the best place to try Ubud's famous
dish. First stewed in local spices, then deep fried, the
duck here is finger-lickin' good, but not quite as oily
as in other restaurants. Another good choice is the stuffed
chicken with shiitake, sprouts, and spinach. The menu
also features salads, overstuffed crunchy sandwiches,
and good veggie options. There are two locations, on either
end of town. |
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Cafe
Lotus
The food here isn't half bad, but the real reason to come
to Cafe Lotus is for the chance to dine in the shadow
of the Pura Saraswati temple. It's cozy in the shaded
dining area or on bamboo platforms overlooking the temple.
The menu features some good Western dishes, pastas and
such, some modified into fiery dishes with hot chiles,
black olives, and hearts of palm. Try the Balinese Satay
Lilit, a mixed fish kabob with a hint of coconut, served
on skewers and presented on a plate the size of a boat.
Their fresh health drinks are a delight, and it's a good
place to just kick back when touring the town. No beef
is served due to the restaurant's proximity to the temple.
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Indus
Indus provides two floors of open-air dining overlooking
the stunning Tjampuhan Ridge. It's a bit like a mafia
don's house, with marble tile and columns. The entrance
is a small gallery and the dining area is under a high
thatch roof with cozy, low-slung couches and chairs to
one side. This is a great spot for coffee and escape from
the heat, or for a long, languid lunch. The setting alone
makes it worth the trip, and the food is tops. Sample
the likes of beetroot and feta empanadas, grilled calamari
tostada, or fine wraps and sandwiches. Be sure to try
the Balinese tenggiri curry, a Spanish whitefish done
in ginger and coconut (or, for a lighter choice, try the
tenggiri salad). Indus has an extensive tapas menu and
good fruit smoothies. Save room for the homemade ginger
ice cream or coconut crème caramel. |
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Mozaic
The word is out and hip Mozaic is the only place in town
where you really need a reservation; make one. Chris Salons,
the French-trained American chef and owner, brings his
own distinctive French-American cooking techniques and
presentation. He uses fresh local ingredients, all rich
and delicious but healthy, with unique local dairy substitutes.
The restaurant was just listed in Le Grande Tables du
Monde, a prestigious French culinary fraternity. The level
of innovation and service is unrivaled. A meal at Mozaic
is a languid affair, best enjoyed in multiple courses,
sopped up with good bread, chased with fine wine, and
shared with friends. Give yourself at least 2 hours to
really enjoy it. Daytime dining features good French light
fare served in a quiet patio area. The evening meal is
an extravaganza of French and continental specialties
done with local flair and served in a lush garden dining
area. Try the king prawns in chilled gazpacho, followed
by a pan-seared Long-Nose Emperor filet done in a Laksa
Indonesian yellow emulsion with rice noodles and baby
turnips. Other specials include roasted lamb with toasted
almond and bean fricassee, Australian beef tenderloin,
and local favorites like babi guling and Ubud crispy duck.
Finish with a fine sorbet combining melon, cherry, and
pomello. The chocolate tart soufflé is sinfully
rich. Service is ultraprofessional, attentive without
being fawning or intimidating, and the atmosphere is the
right mix of elegant and casual -- the perfect romantic
evening. |
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Naughty
Nuri's Warung and Grill
This old expat hangout has the best barbecue in town,
with ribs so tender the meat falls right off the bone.
On Thursday a regular shipment of fresh tuna arrives and
the place fills right up. The burgers, dogs, and local
curries and satay are also good. Free-flowing drink (try
their honkin' martinis) add to the laid-back atmosphere
at street side. Bring your appetite, a high booze tolerance,
and a good sense of humor. |
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Satri's
Warung
The house specialty of this funky, hidden courtyard is
worth the hunt (and the wait). You need to order a day
in advance for a feast of a whole chicken or duck marinated
and glazed in a succulent sauce. The meat just falls off
the bone, and the shared dish is artfully arranged and
served with heaping plates of salad, cooked vegetables,
and a large bowl of rice. Top it off with fresh-squeezed
lemonade. Don't miss this restaurant, even if you don't
have time for the chicken or duck; it's one of the finest
warungs in all of Bali. The very friendly Mrs. Satri serves
her exceptional Indonesian food in generous portions,
and she also holds cooking classes by appointment. The
restaurant is at the end of a dim little alley off of
Monkey Forest Road. On approach, it looks a bit shady,
but soldier on, have a seat, say hello, and ask for a
recommendation. A good evening is guaranteed. |
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PUTRI AYU COTTAGES
Bisma Street, Ubud, Gianyar 80571
Bali - Indonesia
Tel : (62-361) 972590
Fax : (62-361) 972591
Email : putriayu@indosat.net.id
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